9th Annual Event Encourages People To Surf And Enjoy The Waves

San Clemente, CA (April 1, 2013) – Short board, long board, no board, International Surfing Day returns, on Thursday, June 20.

Now in its ninth year, International Surfing Day (ISD) continues to unite surfers around the world to celebrate the sport of surfing, while raising awareness and showing appreciation for our coastal environments.

“Part of the beauty of International Surfing Day is that people everywhere can celebrate and give back,” said Surfrider Foundation Director of Marketing & Communications Laura Lee. “Whether that’s paddling out for the very first time, sneaking in a quick session with friends, or picking up trash at your local beach, ISD is as big as you make it.”

Surfing has a history as diverse as the characters that shaped it; it has grown from an almost forgotten sport of kings to a billion-dollar industry. ISD began in 2005 with a small handful of local observances in the United States and has since expanded to more than 200 events in 30 countries worldwide.

As in previous years, the Surfrider Foundation will be organizing various surf sessions, beach cleanups, and coastal restoration events for people to participate in. In 2012, International Surfing Day participants removed more than 3 tons of trash from our coastlines. Additionally, 1,800 people joined or renewed their Surfrider membership and hundreds of thousands of people watched the first-ever ISD Web-A-Thon.

Surfrider Foundation encourages you to start planning now and save the date for June 20 so you don’t miss out on this awesome annual celebration. For additional information on International Surfing Day or to plan your own event, please visit www.intlsurfingday.com.

About Surfrider Foundation
The Surfrider Foundation is a non-profit grassroots organization dedicated to the protection and enjoyment of our world’s oceans, waves and beaches through a powerful activist network. Founded in 1984 by a handful of visionary surfers in Malibu, California, the Surfrider Foundation now maintains over 250,000 supporters, activists and members worldwide. For more information on the Surfrider Foundation, visit www.surfrider.org.

Tune in each week and prepare to be inspired by:

L to R: Lola Blake (Chick Sticks), Ashely Lloyd (Ashley Lloyd Surfboards), Windy Lang (Windy Surfboards), Kelly Connelly (Everyday Surfboards)

Week Four:

Kelly Connelly - Everyday Surfboards, Los Angeles, California

"I grew up in the Los Angeles area for the most part. Spending some of my childhood years in San Diego and San Francisco. I now reside in the "Little Santa Anita" canyon of Sierra Madre, CA.

I first stood up on a surfboard at the age of 9 while camping at San Elijo and have been surfing ever since. In the fifth grade, I saw the movie "Big Wednesday". There is a scene in which "bear" is glassing a board in his shack on the pier and I told myself "one day I want to make my own surfboard!" Many years later, I was fortunate to meet shaper Richard Wisz who helped me shape my first board and I was hooked. I haven't stopped shaping since. I have been making 100% handcrafted surfboards for about 4 years now under Everyday Surfboards by Kelly Connolly.

Richard and I are now married and expecting our first child, a baby boy due this March! When we aren't surfing or traveling we spend our days nestled in the San Gabriel Mountains with our dog Mona, several chickens and rabbits. We grow organic seasonal food crops and have avocado, citrus and other various fruit trees. Our shaping and glassing room are on the property as well. Enjoying the simple life! Our location allows me to easily surf parts of Ventura, Los Angeles, Orange County and San Diego, wherever the swell and conditions are best."

(Update from GOAB editors: Kelly and Richard welcomed baby Mateo a bit early, and all are doing well!)

Hobbies:
surfing, making surfboards, guitar, singing, mandolin, geology, running, cooking, traveling, art, organic gardening, swimming, yoga, music, reading.

Traveled to: Mexico, Spain, France, England, Ireland, Scotland, Costa Rica, throughout the Caribbean Islands and love exploring the U.S.

GOAB: Was there a defining moment, that you can remember when you decided that this was what you wanted to do?
I knew I wanted to keep making surfboards after I was about halfway through the first board I shaped. Then, I knew I wanted to pursue being a board shaper once I grew confident/comfortable with my skills as a shaper and could start creating my concepts and really get creative. My passion just grew and grew for the craft.

GOAB: How did you persevere to where you are today in a field that is so male dominated?
I've really just let my work speak for itself. So far so good! I have had great feedback and support.

GOAB: We've often read that a board is a board is a board (always written by men!). How do you feel that shaping a board for a women is different and do you feel that being a women you understand that need more than a man can comprehend?
I don't feel that the process of making a board for a female differs from making a board for a male. It really depends on the surfers ability, their wants and needs that makes shaping a board different from person to person.

GOAB: What advice would you give to other young woman surfers that are interested in pursuing a career in this industry?
Go for it!! I think the female surf industry is growing and growing with endless opportunities and possibilities.

GOAB: Was there ever a time that you thought of throwing in the towel and how did you overcome that feeling?
Haven't come across that thought.. At the end of the day, if I took the "business" aspect out, I would still be making handcrafted surfboards for myself, family and friends. Shaping and glassing have opened up a whole new part of what surfing means to me. It's apart of my life now.

GOAB: Did you learn all aspects of designing a surfboard from concept to graphics to glassing, or do you leave some of those things in the hands of others?
I started out only shaping but quickly realized I wanted to get my hands in the whole process. I get boards glassed through glass shops, or I glass boards myself, just depends on the order.. But it is really important to me that I have the ability to do the whole board if I needed to.

GOAB: What exciting things do you have in the works for 2013 and beyond?
I am really excited for 2013! I am 8 months pregnant.. I'm thrilled to be a mother and wife. I am longing to get back in the water and the shaping room!! I have a lot of board designs/concepts that are ready to be made and put to the test! I feel this is just the start for me and am ready to pursue my passion of creating 100% handcrafted surfboards.

Check out Kelly Connelly's Everyday Surfboards here!

Previous Female Shaper Stories:

Week 1:

Lola Blake - Chick Sticks

Week 2:

Ashely Lloyd - Ashley Lloyd Surfboards

Week 3:

Whitney "Windy" Lang - Windy Surfboards

Tune in each week and prepare to be inspired by:

L to R: Lola Blake (Chick Sticks), Ashely Lloyd (Ashley Lloyd Surfboards), Windy Lang (Windy Surfboards), Kelly Connelly (Everyday Surfboards)

Week Three:

Whitney "Windy" Lang - Windy Surfboards, Newport Beach/San Diego, California

Windy Lang's Calfornia cool, retro boards are super rad. She specializes in designing beautiful custom fishes, high performance short boards and (in her words) - anything different and fun! And who would think that a girl who was raised in North Dakota and Minnesota would morph into this super cool, well respected surfboard shaper, right here in Southern California? Well, she says that she always loved the water as a young girl and by the time she moved to So Cal at the age of 18 she was ready to transition from competitive swimming and wakeboarding to surfing. And boy did she ever! 

"I began surfing at age 18 and shaping at 19. Although I didn't grow up surfing, I picked it up quickly because I was a great swimmer and lifeguard with extensive water knowledge. I began riding a 6'2" x 18" x 2 1/4" standard shortboard thruster and had no fun at all on it. After searching around for the right board, I met a friend who made his own surfboards. I was instantly inspired.

He directed me to touch every board I saw and begin researching how to shape. I was hooked. I spent hours reading about surfboards and began making friends in the community. I met a mentor and friend in Huntington Beach named Ken Moore, a glorified garage shaper who was extremely meticulous and taught me the basics.  

We shaped and glassed ten boards together until I split off on my own to pursue my creative outlet. I am confident shaping now although I still have things to learn and perfect. I like experimenting and refining my designs to adapt to the waves I enjoy surfing.  As one of the only female shaper/surfers, I hope to thrive in this male-dominated industry and inspire both male and female surfers to ride a board made by me."

GOAB: Was there a defining moment, that you can remember when you decided that this was what you wanted to do?
I knew I wanted to shape the rest of my life when I received a Hitachi modified planer in the mail sent by an anonymous person!  Such a special gift.  I knew I had to master that tool!

GOAB: How did you persevere to where you are today in a field that is so male dominated? 
I have found so much joy in making and riding my own surfboards that it keeps me going.  I like going against the norm and proving people wrong.  I'm trying to change that stereotype.  Try my boards and find out!

GOAB: We've often read that a board is a board is a board (always written by men!). How do you feel that shaping a board for a women is different and do you feel that being a women you understand that need more than a man can comprehend? 
For myself, I don't feel like shaping a board for a woman is too different.  Girls who surf have always taken second place to men and I just want girls to feel comfortable on their equipment in the line-up. Girls often need more emotional support than equipment differences. I often leave a little extra volume above the center line in the chest area, this makes paddling easier. With this, girls can be tough too and keep up with the guys!

GOAB: What advice would you give to other young woman surfers that are interested in pursuing a career in this industry?
Advice for those interested in the surfboard industry includes:  It's a male-dominated industry so don't ever let a guy take advantage of you, let your true personality shine through, be positive, ride your own boards and test all of your prototypes in all conditions, get comfortable with the planer, and for the really ambitious, learn how to laminate and sand your own boards.

GOAB: Was there ever a time that you thought of throwing in the towel and how did you overcome that feeling?
No.  Every wave I have caught on my boards has made me even more passionate about what I love.

GOAB: Did you learn all aspects of designing a surfboard from concept to graphics to glassing, or do you leave some of those things in the hands of others?
Yes. I know the entire design process from conception to the finish sand.  I actually enjoy glassing even more because it's challenging.  I design all of my graphics and work with my local fin manufacturer to create the best fin set-ups for my boards.

GOAB: What exciting things do you have in the works for 2013 and beyond?
Research and development of my three main models: a standard shortboard, short singlefin, and retro fish.  Dream big.  Make people believe me when I say, "I made this board."  I want to open my own glassing factory within the next couple of years. Travel & make boards around the world.

 Check out Windy's surfboards here. And Windy's fun blog, Seahab, here.

 Be sure and check out our past stories on female shapers:

Tune in each week and prepare to be inspired by:

Photo Credit for Ashley Lloyd Photo: Neal Casal

Week Two:

Ashley Lloyd - Ashley Lloyd Surfboards, Santa Cruz, California

Photo credit: Jeremiah KilleAshley’s love for the ocean began at a young age in Malibu, and has developed into a life of surfing California peelers. Over the past ten years, Lloyd's shaping has transformed from part-time hobby to full-time creation.  Shapes ranging from classic logs to progressive quads, thrusters, twinies, and single fins, her in-the-water experience translates into smooth lines in the shaping bay.  

"Looking back, I had a pretty magical childhood. I attribute much of my love for the beach to my mother, Elaine, who thought that the beach was the perfect playground for kids. Even though I was born inland—the San Fernando Valley!—my mother loved the beach. Since I was six days old, she began taking me down to her favorite spot—Paradise Cove in Malibu. This is where I learned how to make castles in the sand, skirts out of seaweed, hats out of lobster tails, where I collected rocks with stripes and holes to bring to my mom, where I followed my older brother, Tim, into the ocean and, eventually, where I learned to paddle on a surfboard. 

Photo Credit: Jeremiah KillePhoto Credit: Jeremiah KilleWhen we got well into surfing, we started heading to Malibu Point. As soon as we were old enough, in the summertime our mom would drop us off at Malibu before she began her work day and picked us up after her day was done. I distinctly remember her famous whistle that would call us out of the water. As soon as I was old enough to drive, and had enough gas in the tank, I was headed to the beach. I was pretty obsessed with surfing when I was growing up. 

I always thought it would be cool to shape a surfboard, but didn’t necessarily realize that it was a possibility for me to be a shaper. My silver-haired, kind-spirited and solemn surfing pal from Malibu, Danny Tarampi, one day asked me if I’d be interested in learning the art of shaping. “Yes, I would.” So he introduced it to me."

Photo Credit: Nikki BrooksGOAB: Was there a defining moment, that you can remember when you decided that this was what you wanted to do?
It was during the shaping of my first board -- when time was lost.

How did you persevere to where you are today in a field that is so male dominated?
I keep loving shaping boards for myself and others, and people keep ordering.

We've often read that a board is a board is a board (always written by men!). How do you feel that shaping a board for a women is different and do you feel that being a women you understand that need more than a man can comprehend?
I look for the need of the person and their physical and mental ability in surfing, the waves they're riding, and where they want to go with their surfing. No, I don't stereotype male shapers as not being able to comprehend something that I can as a shaper because I'm a woman. I've had many people question my ability as a shaper because of my gender, and that wasn't cool... so I wouldn't want to turn around and do the same. My shaping mentors have been generous, caring, wonderful people that were Male.Boards created for the film, "Dear and Yonder"

What advice would you give to other young woman surfers that are interested in pursuing a career in this industry?
Practice safety with tools and toxic elements; protect your body,  its the only one you have.  Also, stay open minded.  Love and enjoy.

Was there ever a time that you thought of throwing in the towel and how did you overcome that feeling?
No.  I will always shape boards for myself and my friends, so long as my body and mind provide.   Each board I shape is made with love.  I put thought and heart into each one, and am thankful for every order, and am thankful for the time to do other things when I don't have orders.  

(Editors Note: Ashley is an accomplished musician and divides her time between her love of surfing and her love of music! Check out her band, The Shapes here!)

Did you learn all aspects of designing a surfboard from concept to graphics to glassing, or do you leave some of those things in the hands of others?
When I first started out, I would do every or most steps of surfboard production. Occasionally I will shape and glass a board with my husband, Alex. Today I mostly shape  and leave the glassing in the glassing expert's hands.  I do poke my head in the glass shop to stay involved as much as I can with color selection, aesthetics, and some hand painted touch.  

What exciting things do you have in the works for 2013 and beyond?
Breathing
Enjoying life and family and friends
Shaping
Using materials that have less of an impact on the environment
Touring with my band The Shapes
Teaching surfing
Traveling 

Visit Ashley Lloyd's website Here

Visit Week One's story on Lola Blake from Chick Sticks here.

Tune in each week and prepare to be inspired by:

L to R: Lola Blake (Chick Sticks), Ashely Lloyd (Ashley Lloyd Surfboards), Windy Lang (Windy Surfboards), Kelly Connelly (Everyday Surfboards)

We'll start off our 4 part series with:  

Lola Blake - Chick Sticks, Oceanside, CA

USA SHAPED PERFORMANCE SURFBOARDS FOR GIRLS

"I started the Chick Sticks brand because there weren’t any Surfboards designed for girls. When I first got in to Surfing I was buying used guys boards, painting them and making them look cool but they were too hard to ride so I started having customs shaped for me that I could learn to surf on. My friends loved the way my custom boards rode and girls were literally buying my boards right out from under me at my surf break or having me hook them up with the shapers making mine and I just thought, I need to be fully hands on with this and make these boards for other girls. I’m partial to short boards and quad fin set ups because I learned to surf on a 5.9 Fish. Everyone told me I was crazy to try to learn to surf on anything less than a 9.0 but I knew it was possible with the right modifications. Now I have every age learning to surf on my boards and Girls are drawn to the Chick Sticks brand because it’s the real deal. Every board model offers something unique to suit every level and style of surfing as well as modifications that help girls, things like narrower tails on my quad setups for easier duck diving.

My shapes are all High Performance with Girl Friendly modifications and feature graphics that I design myself. And they are my own board programs that I developed after a year of R&D testing out in the water and perfected by my shaper. I don’t cut corners anywhere and start with the highest quality blanks and use colored glue line and stringers and all my boards come with full board art. I’m very fortunate that Master Shaper, World Champion and current WSA #1 ranked surfer Javier Huarcaya is my shaper and that we work so well together. XTR CNC Engineer Dane Hantz refined my board programs and Javi has 30 years of Surfing and Shaping to his credit. My Factory shapes boards for Clay Marzo, Dane Reynolds, Courtney Conlouge and Bethany Hamilton to name a few. My brand is true high performance shaped by the Best and run by an All-Girl Company."

GOAB: Was there a defining moment, that you can remember when you decided that this was what you wanted to do?
Yeah. When I proved everybody wrong and learned to surf on a short board. I was so Stoked that my ideas and concepts were working and my boards got so much attention that I threw myself into developing a girl’s brand. When I made my first demo set I figured worst case I’d have a bunch of really cool boards in my quiver.

GOAB: How did you persevere to where you are today in a field that is so male dominated?
I have to say I really did pay my dues. It was so rough in the beginning. Everyone told me I was crazy, stupid, there was not a girls market out there. They said the economy and surf industry in general was in the dumps and I’d never make it. Some of the people I asked for help either didn’t take me seriously or only gave me half the information I needed to make something happen. And I had my first couple of shapers leave me so when I think back now to where I started and what it took for the Chick Sticks brand to be what it is now this has been the most challenging but also the most rewarding thing I’ve ever done in my life.

GOAB: We've often read that a board is a board is a board (always written by men!). How do you feel that shaping a board for a women is different and do you feel that being a women you understand that need more than a man can comprehend?
No one knows better what a girl needs or wants than a girl! I’m so lucky to have aligned with Javi who is on the same page in the fact that he too believes that girls don’t need a longer board to make surfing easier they need the proper shape, dimensions and board model to fit their smaller frames and how the mechanics of a girl’s body works. He is the one that was able to take my board programs to the level where every board model is performing at maximum capacity. I’m beyond Stoked.

GOAB: What advice would you give to other young woman surfers that are interested in pursuing a career in this industry?
My first piece of advice is listen to your gut and don’t let anyone talk you out of your dreams. Go for it. And be prepared for long hours and hard work. Basically, do whatever it takes to make it happen. I think with that attitude and a good work ethic if you have a good idea you will succeed. Set your goals high and believe in yourself.

GOAB: Was there ever a time that you thought of throwing in the towel and how did you overcome that feeling?
Oh my God Never. Not even once. I come from a competitive athletic background and am fortunate those years of training and focus taught me to be relentless in pursuing my goals.

GOAB: Did you learn all aspects of designing a surfboard from concept to graphics to glassing, or do you leave some of those things in the hands of others?
I think I have watched every Surf DVD ever made, I read all the surf mags cover to cover each month and I’ve learned so much from each of the shapers I’ve worked with and committed myself to developing boards for girls that work and look sick. My boards are machine cut and I leave the mill work, shaping, glassing and finish in the hands of the best. I can’t do it all. I have no desire to learn to do that part of the process when I already have the best in the industry shaping my boards.

GOAB: What exciting things do you have in the works for 2013 and beyond?
I’m so Stoked and it’s going to blow people’s minds when my Chick Sticks XTR Pro Series launches this month. My highest performing shapes, Little Screamer thruster, Vixen five fin option fish and the Hoochie Mod five fin option egg have been supercharged XTR style starting with closed cell waterproof foam blanks and the shapes have aggressively been reworked. The Pro Series line is a stronger, lighter stringlerless epoxy and have parabolic channels on the deck for ultimate flex and responsiveness. I’m working on my Starlette longboard and Sea Goddess Stand Up and I’m adding more skateboards to my Chick Sticks brand. I get so many requests from guys for surfboards that I’m launching a very sick brand for guys this year and I’m working on expanding my Surf School to a Mexico or Costa Rica location. So between trying to keep up with all my board orders, my online surf and skate shop and new boards coming out this is going to be a busy year for me. I’m so Stoked about my brand becoming a lifestyle for Girls and being able to use it as a platform to encourage girls to get in to surfing and skateboarding and believe in themselves and promote Girl Power Stoke. And I feel very blessed to be doing what I’m doing.

Sally's desert adventure begins in the exotic locale of Dubai, in the United Arab Emirates, when she headed to the Wadi Adventure pool with a Red Bull photo crew not far behind. In this short film, Sally Fitzgibbons travels to the middle of the Al Ain desert to -- of all things --- surf!  This fascinating story and video are beautifully captured in super slow motion amid stunning scenery.  

Dubai is one of the fatest growing cities in the world. With their never ending oil reserves, the Arabs are the uber rich of the world and this surf park proves once again that with money you can create pretty much anything you can dream up! The Wadi Adventure pool is an extreme water sports facility with a wave pool that is capable of creating waves that are over 6' high every 90 seconds. This is one of the few wave pools in the world that is dedicated primarily for surfers. Sessions go for an hour and only 6 people max are allowed in the water at any one time. In addition, there are 3 world class white water rafting and kayaking runs - plus, rope courses, climbing walls and zip lines. Sounds like fun, huh? 

The video is a series being released over the next few weeks that follow Australian surfing sensation, Sally Fitzgibbons as she travels to one of surfing’s most unique spots, a wave pool in the middle of the desert. In her constant quest to improve, Sally aims to take to the air and nail her first ever air reverse. But first she has to adjust to the hot conditions in Dubai. Check back as we continue to follow Sally's desert surfing adventure! 

 

Kauai-native, pro surfer and model Alana Blanchard, along with her close friends, Leila Hurst and Camille Brady, take you on a journey. In this episode, Alana reflects on her experiences growing up in Kauai. The girls then pack in a full day of surfing, diving with the local boys, and swimming with sea turtles in this premiere episode. Check back every Monday for a new episode! 

Produced by 8 Side Productions http://www.8sideproductions.com/

We'll keep posting them as they're made!

First, we were invited! That in and of itself was super rad. Chasing Mav's people - thanks for that! Second, anything that promotes the sport of surfing, that might possibly inspire one girl (or guy) to do something that is so out of their natural comfort zone - that could change their whole lives around - is simply awesome. Period. The film maker's addition of skateboarding scenes was rad and right on, since a Santa Cruz surfing movie without that might not seem so authentic. They used one of our fave songs of all time in the happy-feel-good, albeit sort of expected kids-swimming-in-their-undies pool scene, Matthew Sweet's Girlfriend. The big wave (understatement) surfing scenes were jaw dropping, off the chain, crazy and really amazing. Thanks for not cheaping out and hiring stuntmen that aren't really surfers or just a couple of them. The stuntmen - and women BTW!!! (we noticed Taylor Pitz in the credits!), were sick. Thanks also for casting the role of Jay Moriarity to cutie, Jonny Weston, who actually surfs and skates and not some hack actor who's face is digitally pasted onto a stunt double in every scene. 

And now...ahem....on to the not so good stuff. Aside from the fact that there were moments during the film where Lucy Bleu was checking her Facebook page (hey Lucy Bleu - remember when they told us to power down our phones???), cause honestly - it was kind of boring at times, our biggest beef with Chasing Mavericks is that the film makers forgot to capture the JOY of surfing. At times it feels like the sport is really just one, big DRAG! Let's face it - big wave surfing is like attempted suicide and falling off the side of 30 foot building isn't exactly our thing, so we didn't always get it. Frosty Hesson didn't really come off as a very happy person and everyone we know that surfs is pretty damn happy. 

But we'll leave it up to you to draw your own conclusions. We suspect that big wave surfers and adrenaline junkies will find this film very amusing. Definitely worth a Saturday night out though for sure! 

They're supporting Gang Up For Good and doing their own Pinky Swear to support the anti-bullying movement! Symbolized by wearing blue nail polish on their pinky fingers, Bree and Sage want to show their commitment to a bully-free world. Gang Up for Good and show your support by using hash tags like these on Twitter and Instagram: #GangUpForGood #AntiBullying #PinkySwear

As strange as it seems, bullying can start right with your own friends. Make the pledge, paint your pinkies and promise to do away with mean girls every where! 

Check out the do it yourself steps and a few anti bullying tips below:

According to the actual Frosty Hesson, the real life story of how this all went down went something like this:

"I had been coaching Jay Moriarity for four years when his whole world changed on a fifty-foot monster of a wave that almost killed him. Instead, it made him famous.

At just sixteen, he was by far the youngest surfer to take on Mavericks, a reef break half a mile off the California coast at Half Moon Bay that at the time was recognized as having some of the largest waves anywhere in the world. Some of the most legit surfers in the game had even conceded that when Mavs was on, it was more powerful than the legendary waves at Waimea on the North Shore of Oahu—and that had been considered the all-time Mecca of big wave surfing since the late 1950s. So for a kid Jay’s age to surf Mavericks was unheard of.Real life Frosty Hesson.

To say that Mavericks isn’t for kids is doing it an injustice. It’s hardly for people. I’d been surfing it for seven years when Jay had his life-altering moment. I had seen world-renowned big wave riders paddle out, take one look at the building-sized, dark green wall of ocean rushing at them with such incredible force that the water actually gets sucked backward up the face of the wave, and then just turn around and go home. These were people who’d conquered breaks all over the globe, but they simply wanted nothing to do with Mavs.

Jay, though, he wanted to slay dragons.

As a coach I’d worked with dozens and dozens of young people, training them toward the goal of not merely being the best athletes they could be, but more importantly the best people they could be—respectful, responsible, passionate human beings. But when Jay was just a scrawny twelve-year-old who’d somehow gotten up the nerve to come over to my van at Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz and asked me to teach him about surfing, his enthusiasm for learning what I had to offer totally blew me away. He had a vision of who he wanted to be, the ceaseless determination to make it happen, and you could see it in his bright blue eyes and this killer grin that drew everyone to him.

If not for his passion and eagerness to do the work, I would never have let the kid anywhere near Mavericks. We’d been working together on basic technique and then contest surfing for two and a half years before he even brought it up. After that the real work began, and it was another year and a half before I let him paddle out at Half Moon Bay.

He hadn’t even been surfing Mavs a whole season when the wipeout happened."

A construction superintendent who coached the Pearson Arrow and Soquel High surf teams, Hesson was also one of a handful of Santa Cruz surfers to surf Maverick's before the wave was exposed to the world by the media.

What follows in Chasing Maverick's is a chronicle of Moriarity's life and the coach behind the surfer. 

The film is directed by Curtis Hanson and stars super cute newcomer  Jonny Weston, an accomplished surfer, cast to play Jay Moriarity. The obligatory female roles went to Elisabeth Shue and Abigail Spencer, as Moriarity's mom and Hesson's wife respectively . 

First glance impressions? Could be leaning a bit towards the cheese ball side,  but we forgive you Hollywood. We all know what happens when you get your hands on surfing or skateboarding. You're well meaning, but don't always get it right. But no worries - we're still totally gonna see it!